Basics to bike fitting
Having a pain somewhere while riding? Get your bike fitted well. Here are some tips to aid you with fitting you bike. We are no bike fitting professionals buy we hope that the tips would help!
1) Pedal/Shoe Adjustments
Adjustment: The most efficient way of pedalling is by using the balls of your feet. But the thing is, it is possible to end up pedalling on your arches or on the tip of your toes unless you have something to keep your feet in place.
How to do it: Toe clips or a clipless pedal system would be ideal for most cyclist. Mount the cleats to the bottom of the cycling shoe so that when engaged into the clipless pedals, the balls of your feet would be placed centered over the pedals. If you are doing it for the first time, it is best to have it fitted by a professional bike fitter.
2) Seat Forward/Backward Position
Adjustment: Ensure that the bike is levelled on the trainer. Get onto the bike and cycle a little, getting into your usual cycling position. Stop pedalling with one foot at the three o’clock position. Have someone to level out the crank arm. Maintain that position while your helper holds a plumb line (a thread with a weight hanging on the end would do) against the indentation just beneath the bone at the base of your kneecap. Adjust the saddle forward or backward to fit the position. Remember, the plumb line must be perpendicular to the centre of the pedal when the forward leg is at the 3 o’clock position. Adjust the seat fore and aft on the rails until the plumb line bisects the pedal axle. Make sure your knee is not in front of the center of the pedal when the forward leg is at 3 o'clock.
How to do it: Loosen the same bolt used to angle the seat (see Seat Angle section).
3) Seat Angle
Adjustment: Start with the rear section of the saddle level with the ground. Generally, you would want the base of your pelvic bone to be resting on the saddle. Adjust the angle degree by degree to find a sweet spot (maximum of +- 3 degrees).
How to do it: On most seat post, there is a bolt near the top of the seat post that loosens, allowing you to adjust the saddle.

4) Seat Height
Adjustment: In your cycling attire (especially in your cycling shorts/tights and cycling shoes), place your bike on a trainer or find somewhere that allows you hold yourself up while pedalling on the bike. Raise the seat height until your leg is fully extended when your heel is on the lower pedal. Ensure that when your heel is placed on the pedal, your hips are not tilting. Once done, Clip into the pedals or have them placed where they are normally are and start pedalling. Your hips should not be rocking, but rather stable. If your hips are still rocking, chances are that your seat height may be a little high.
How to do it: The Allen bolt that holds the seat post in place is on the seat clamp at the bottom of the seat post. Pedal until one pedal is placed at the bottom. Your heel should just be able to touch the lower pedal with your leg straight so when you place the ball of the foot on the pedal (ball over the center of the pedal) your knee will bend. This is a great first stepping stone for getting the right seat height
5) Reach to the Handlebars
Adjustment: Comfort is key in deciding this. Generally, you would be able to reach the various handlebar positions on the bike while being comfortable. This would mean you would not need to lock your elbows, straining your back or neck, or simply having to move to the edge or back of your saddle. Sit and spin on the trainer for a couple of minutes to have a feel of it.
Another test: While on the bike, look down at your handlebar and see if it is in line with your front hub. On road bikes, the ideal reach is when the bar hides the hub. On mountain bikes, the ideal reach is usually when the bar is placed an inch ahead of the hub.
How to do it: To change the reach, you would require a longer or shorter stem. (The component that holds the handlebar.
6) Handlebar Height
Adjustment: Comfort is vital. Without comfort, it would be difficult for endurance to come in. If you experience lower back, neck, arms or palm pains, you’re most probably leaning too far forward on the bike. If all your weight in on the saddle, you are probably sitting too upright and taking all the impact from the road through your butt. On road bikes, handlebar height varies from matching the height of the saddle to 4 inches lower (In extreme race position). On mountain bikes, the seat height begins at the seat level to about 3 inches lower than the seat. Handle bar height may be higher as well, depending on the rider.
How to do it: Loosen the stem and raise/lower the whole cockpit by adding or removing the spacers. If there are no spacers to play around with, you would require a stem with a higher degree of angle.

 winning his 2nd cross country title after 5 years.jpg)
 racing to win the Womens crown.jpg)

 chasing back a late break.jpg)

 winning the open category leading Darren Low (Team Cycleworx) the top Singaporean into the line.jpg)
 the Singapore National Champion for 2010.jpg)
 attacking the pack with 500 metres to go.jpg)









